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i _ , . Keys To Good Pruning 1. Prune early in life of the tree so pruning wounds are small and so growth goes where you want it. one -Band 2. Begin your visual inspection at the top of the tree and work \ p Shear downward. 3. Identify the best leader and lateral branches (scaffold limbs) i� , before you begin pruning and remove defective parts before 41011k , pruning for form. ■ . 1 n 4. Don't worry about protecting pruning cuts. For aesthetics, i1 you may feel better painting larger wounds with a neutral- , L �� 1 color tree paint, but the evidence is that it does not prevent I ` or reduce decay. I \ ��cc 5. Keep your tools sharp. One -hand pruning shears with Iv curved blades (secateurs) work best on young trees. 11 6. Make saftey a number one priority. For high branches use a Branch Bark Ridge pole pruner. Some, like the one pictured, have both a saw and shears on the same tool. A major job on a big tree Cut outside branch ridge and collar. should be done by a professional arborist. ( � 7. When you prune back to the trunk or a larger limb, I I / ,, ,� 4 r branches too small to have formed a collar (swollen area at Colla / // base) should be cut close. (Notice in the drawing of the iI 1 pruning shears that the cutting blade is cutting upward for Pole Pruner less effort and a close cut.) Otherwise, follow the rules of good pruning of larger limbs by cutting just outside the branch ridge and collar and at a slight down- and - outward A angle (so as not to injure the collar). Do not leave a Correct Too Too Too 1 protruding stub. Cu ning / Close long , Slanted if / 8. When simply shortening a small branch, make the cut at a f� ie_ 1 f I lateral bud or another lateral branch (referred to as "head" I� 1 ' or "headback pruning "). Favor a bud that will produce a I i branch that will grow in a desired direction (usually II I i outward). The cut should be sharp and clean, and made at a slight angle about 1/4 inch beyond the bud. When To Prune depends to a large extent on why you prune. Light pruning and the removal of dead wood can be done anytime. Otherwise, here are some guidelines, but recognizing that individual species may differ. • Winter Pruning during domancy is the most common practice. It results in a vigourous burst of c p new growth in the spring and should be used if that is the desired effect. It is usually best to wait until + D d the coldest part of winter has passed. Some species, such as maples, walnuts and birches, may "bleed" o R ► when the sap begins to flow. This is not harmful and will cease when the tree leafs out. 4 a Summer To direct the growth by slowing the branches you don't want; or to slow or "dwarf' the development of a tree or branch, pruning should be done soon after seasonal growth is complete. The reason for the slowing effect is that you reduce the total leaf surface, thereby reducing the amount of food manufactured and sent to the roots for their development and next year's growth of the crown. Another reason to prune in the summer is for corrective purposes. Defective limbs can be seen more easily, or limbs that hang down too far under the weight of leaves. Fall Because decay fungi spread their spores profusely in the fall and healing of wounds seems to be , � " '` slower on fall cuts, this is a good time to leave your pruning tools in storage. �, Flowering Trees If your purpose for pruning is to enhance flowering; 1. For trees or shrubs o , that bloom in summer or fall on current year's growth (e.g., crape myrtle), prune in winter. � / 2. For trees that bloom in spring from buds on one-year-old wood (e.g., dogwood and flowering fruit � / G trees), prune when their flowers fade. ��+1� 4k- y�l Caution: In some areas of the country, diseases or insect occurrence may be affected by the time of pruning. Check with your county extension agent or city forester, or an arborist or nursery operator to /AO see if there are any local problems. 6 • TREE CITY USA BULLETIN No. 1 • National Arbor Day Foundation